Letter to Family from Camp Croix, Peace Corps Training Site, St. Croix, U. S. Virgin Islands, September 22, 1966
Dear Mom and Dad,
This past weekend was unforgettable and exciting. Forgive me if I wax poetic. I told you my pals and I were planning a sailing trip for this weekend. By Friday afternoon we still hadn't heard whether the boat would be available. We had about given up. Then at 3:00 PM Friday, the fellow who was arranging the charter popped into camp and said we could leave as soon as we could get to the boat. Surprised, we told him we would have six guys at the boat ready to leave at 7:00 PM. He said he would inform the skipper and everything would be ready. No problem, Mon.
We got food together to last from Saturday to Monday on the boat. Each of us packed a few things in a bag and we arrived at the boat by seven o’clock. When we got there, there were no signs of life and the boat did not appear to be ready to depart. The owner lived nearby so we went to his house. He said neither he nor the skipper had been informed that the boat had been chartered. We were puzzled. The owner said it would be impossible to leave that night but if we wanted to sleep on the boat we could leave at daybreak. That evening, one of the guys supplemented our provisions with a five-gallon jug of Italian red wine purchased from a local wine smuggler. The last essential ingredient had fallen into place.
This past weekend was unforgettable and exciting. Forgive me if I wax poetic. I told you my pals and I were planning a sailing trip for this weekend. By Friday afternoon we still hadn't heard whether the boat would be available. We had about given up. Then at 3:00 PM Friday, the fellow who was arranging the charter popped into camp and said we could leave as soon as we could get to the boat. Surprised, we told him we would have six guys at the boat ready to leave at 7:00 PM. He said he would inform the skipper and everything would be ready. No problem, Mon.
We got food together to last from Saturday to Monday on the boat. Each of us packed a few things in a bag and we arrived at the boat by seven o’clock. When we got there, there were no signs of life and the boat did not appear to be ready to depart. The owner lived nearby so we went to his house. He said neither he nor the skipper had been informed that the boat had been chartered. We were puzzled. The owner said it would be impossible to leave that night but if we wanted to sleep on the boat we could leave at daybreak. That evening, one of the guys supplemented our provisions with a five-gallon jug of Italian red wine purchased from a local wine smuggler. The last essential ingredient had fallen into place.
At 6:00 AM Saturday we set sail on the 30 ft. sloop, "Stormy Weather," for two of the British Virgin Islands, Tortola and Virgin Gorda, forty miles north through open seas. Our skipper, Flavien Richardson, alias "No No,” was the very same wiry little Negro sailor from the island of St. Martin who had been our skipper on another charter a few weeks ago. He had taken us for our snorkeling outing to Buck Island. The rest of the crew consisted of Bryan, Mike, Paul, Dan, Larry and me; all of us fellow trainees headed for Kerala, India and new but already close friends. We wanted to visit the other islands to see Peace Corps trainees from the Gujarat-bound group who were doing field training there.

At about 9:00 AM we ate a big breakfast of ham and eggs, which we
prepared in the ship's galley. All day Saturday we spent sailing in calm seas, the gently rolling waves rocking and swaying us as we slowly gained our sea legs. No No sat at the helm controlling the tiller with his bare foot while he strummed his guitar and sang French Calypso songs that told of the sea and youth and love.By late afternoon we reached the cluster of islands that includes St. John and St. Thomas, the other two American Virgin Islands, the British Virgin Islands and other small West Indian islands.
As the beautiful red sun set behind the islands and night began to fall we put in at
Tortola Harbor, twelve hours after we had left St Croix. (It takes twenty minutes by plane but I would rather sail any day.)There on the dock in Roadtown, the capital of Tortola, with a population of eight thousand, the local taxis were waiting for us. Our cabbie knew where the Peace Corps people were living so we commenced to surprise them one by one. As we drove, we gathered them up and took them back with us to a Roadtown bar to party and swap stories. We had a joyful reunion. Though our friendships were all in their infancy, and though we had only been separated for a very short time, we were most happy to see each other. The fact that the group on Tortola included all of the single females may have been a factor. We drank and sang and talked past midnight. Part of our little crew then returned to the boat where some spent the night. Others of us stayed with friends on the island.

Tortola was a much smaller island than St. Croix, and had been much less spoiled by tourists. The British influence was reflected in the conservative style of dress and in the school system and local government. The only street in Roadtown was very narrow and was lined by little open-air shops of every description. There were no sidewalks so vehicles, people, cows, pigs, goats, chickens and donkeys shared the road. The countryside was green, lush and hilly and there were many coconut-palm-fringed beaches. A service offered for passersby on the roadsides by local islanders along the coconut groves was to climb the trees, pick coconuts fresh and slice them open with a sharp machete. The sweet coconut milk was a cool and refreshing thirst quencher and was offered at a very reasonable price.
The next morning at sun-up five of our friends from Tortola joined our crew as we again set sail, this time for Virgin Gorda to see the sights and visit more Peace Corps friends. This island was twelve miles away and was clearly visible the whole trip. Now islands surrounded us. We had a good wind. The sails were full. The warm sun was shining down and spirits were high. It was good to be with these people to whom I had become so attached in so short a time.As we neared Virgin Gorda I saw the most beautiful of the Caribbean islands I had seen so far. Her shore was lined with enormous boulders thirty to forty feet in diameter. The water was the
bluest and the most transparent I had ever seen. Her beaches had the purest, whitest sand you could imagine. They were thickly fringed with tall coconut palms. We put into the dock at Virgin Gorda at 11:00 AM, five hours after we departed Tortola. Again, every taxi driver on the island must have seen us coming because they were all lined up at the dock waiting for us as we tied up. This time we couldn’t oblige them however, since the house we were going to was just a couple hundred yards from the dock.First, we wanted to visit Don and Katy Peek. We knew where they lived because one of the guys in the Tortola group had been to visit them once, already. When we got to their house they were not there. The neighbors told us they had gone to the Harvest Festival on the other side of the island, which was accessible only by boat. It would have taken much too long for us to sail, but since the neighbors said they expected the Peeks back in the early afternoon, we decided to see a little of the island and come back to their house later.
We had been told that the one thing we should not miss while on Virgin Gorda was “The Baths.” We first went back to the boat and got our swimming and snorkeling gear, hailed a taxi, (thirty cents took you anywhere a road went on the island,) and asked him to take us to The Baths. The cabbie drove us to the end of the road and from there we walked about one hundred yards down a narrow, winding, rocky path to reach our destination. If Heaven exists on earth it is at the end of that path! Those gigantic rocks, gouged and sculptured by the sea over thousands of years, the pure white sand, the shade from the coconut palms and tropical vines, combined to provide a setting that can only by described as idyllic.

We explored the crevasses and passageways
and the secluded pools for which the site was named. We waded in the pleasantly warm, thigh and waste-deep pools with the soft sand under our feet, protected on all sides and above by the large boulders. We climbed to the top of the rocks where we could look out on the sea and down that magnificent rocky shore.
We followed local tradition and wrote our names on the broad leaves of a large tree where hundreds of visitors before us had done likewise, the significance being that whoever wrote his name on one of those leaves would surely return to The Baths on another day.
We donned our snorkeling gear and explored the gorgeously colored coral reefs and the underwater passageways. We swam along with spectacular tropical fish of every size, color, shape and pattern. Then we lay on that white sand and soaked in the sun’s warm rays. When we grew too hot we sat in the shade of a big rock and feasted on an exquisite banquet of visual pleasure all around us. My words could not begin to describe the beauty of that place. Part of its mystique was its seclusion. On that day, nobody was there in that earthly paradise but us.

Hours flew by like minutes and soon it was time to return to Don and Katy’s. This time they were home. They were surprised and pleased to see us and it was great to see them. They joined us for dinner at a nearby restaurant and we continued our visit.
It was getting late and we wanted to get started on our way home before sunset so we could still catch a good breeze to help us out of the harbor. The Tortola bunch left first, flying back to their island, a six-minute, three-dollar flight, but with none of the romance of the sail.
Don and Katy walked us to the dock and we set sail for St. Croix at 6:00 PM. They stood on the dock waving as we sailed off into the setting sun. The mountainous islands to the west were silhouetted by the red sun sinking into the ocean beyond, and were framed by the powder puff clouds above which were transformed into giant billows of flame by the sun’s reflection. As darkness fell I lay on the deck gazing up at the crescent moon and a million twinkling stars, a vision framed by the mainsail and the jib. The warm Caribbean tried gently, and sometimes not so gently, to rock me to sleep. As the moonlight shone on luminous specs in the crystal clear water at each side of the boat it seemed as though we were stirring up diamonds as we cut our homeward path. No No beckoned Suzie, the south wind, to come down and get her face wet, “Wake up Suzie, you gotta blow us on home now.”
At 7:30 AM Monday six weary, bedraggled and sunburned “brothers of the sea” landed back on St. Croix. I felt so very happy, but so totally inadequate to describe that magic forty-eight hours from Saturday to Monday. And, I felt that this was only the beginning of an adventure so grand and so exciting. My heart was full.
Love,
Don

























